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Sometimes called the 'white city,' Belgrade's character is in reality rather grayer in tone. Serbia's capital is a vibrant metropolis of cobbled streets and wide boulevards that is best experienced for its people and atmosphere rather than its historic sights. The city owes its regional standing to its café culture, nightlife and joie de vivre rather than to historic monuments that beg to be seen. Standing at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, and at the frontier of the Hapsburg and Ottoman empires of old, Belgrade has seen history being made more often than it might care to remember. Now that the worst of the bad times seem over, the city is open for business once again - it never really closed. From morning to late at night, old-timers stroll its shopping streets looking for bargains, while beautiful young people sip Turkish coffee in any one of the city's numerous theme cafes. But Belgrade is far more than just people-watching - it is a green place too, with more parks than any of its European neighbors and a surprisingly relaxed, laid-back air.